Carretera Austral; Cochrane – Puerto Rio Tranquilo

When we were just about to leave the campground in Cochrane, Pablo arrived! How good to see him again! Hadn’t seen him since Puerto Natales and we often wondered how and what he was doing. He went to Torres del Paine and had hiked there for 10 days. Then he went on, but he had a very rough time mostly because of the very strong wind. So he hitchhiked a big part of the route and that’s why he caught up with us. He did see Mel, Chris, Gijs, Karen and the 2 Swiss guys along the way. They had taken the same ferry across Lago O’Higgins. Mel and Chris were pretty far behind and Gijs and Karen a little less. We wonder if, when and where we will see them again. Pablo needed some rest and good and lots of food, so he planned on staying in Cochrane for a day or 2.

We left Cochrane with renewed spirits to go to the next little town, Puerto Bertrand, about 50 kms (30 miles) further. We should be able to make that. But the renewed spirits were gone quickly. Again, the road was very bad and almost the whole route went uphill. Sometimes a little part downhill, but then uphill again. And it was very, very hot. The thermometer went way into the 90’s again, almost to 100. Also, this time the scenery wasn’t too interesting. A dry, desertlike world and no shade anywhere to take a break and to drink and/or eat something. All day in the burning hot sun. From a Canadian couple we heard that there should be a campground about 5 kms (3 miles) after Puert Bertrand so we went looking for it.

With an average of about 9 km/h (5mph), it became a long day again. When we finally arrived at Puerto Bertrand, we hoped we would see the campground quickly. But first we had to go up another hill, of course… When we saw the sign of the campground and went into the road leading toward it, we discovered it was a long way out yet. We didn’t feel like going all that way, so we camped beside the river. Very nice spot, but many many mosquitos. No other option than to get inside the tent quickly.

The next day on to Puerto Rio Tranquilo, again about 60 kms (36 miles) and again a very long and hot day. Also the road was no exception this day; bad state and many hills again. But this part was a little less steep and the scenery was nice again; hills, snowy mountains in the distance and very beautiful, blue lakes underneath us. There was no wind, so the lakes were like mirrors. Very special, haven’t seen that very often. But again, very hot. We soaked our shirts in the river and put them back on. Very, very nice and refreshing.

We cooked some food somewhere in the afternoon, found a spot in the shade and next to a stream and sat there for a while. Cooled off in the water and wet our shirts again. Then we were ready for the last 15 kms (9 miles). Finally we arrived in the village and went looking for the campground other cyclists had recommended to us. When we arrived there, we must have looked very overheated and exhausted because they gave us bottles of very cold water (right from the freezer) immediately. It tasted great! Another day with an average of about 10 km/h (6 mph), so once again no speedrecord…

Before we got to the town we had already decided to stay at least a day. Our clothes weren’t exactly smelling very great after all the sweat and dust, so they needed a fresh-up. One of our mattresses was running empty very slowly, so we needed to look for the leek (but didn’t find it and last night it was okay again…) and we wanted to do just nothing again. We went to the lake and Ron even went for a swim, which was very refreshing. Little bit a beachy atmosphere…

We decided to stay another day and visited marble caves (Capillas de Marmol). Very special and different. Inside there are lots of different colors due to different minerals in the water and many shapes and forms. Didn’t do anything else, because Ron wasn’t feeling well. And besides that, it’s way too hot to much. It has never been as hot over here (around 100 degrees); our luck. We planned on leaving here tomorrow, but first he has to feel better again.

3 thoughts on “Carretera Austral; Cochrane – Puerto Rio Tranquilo

  1. Hoop dat Ronnie al weer wat opgeknapt is. Blijft apart dat what’s app-en, alsof je nog gewoon in NL bent. Nu weet ik ook waar je was toen we aan het ‘kletsen’ waren. Gesellie. Ziet er idd errug droog uit. Maar fantastische meren, bergen en vooral de kleuren ook. Wauw!
    Kun je dat water uit de bergen gewoon drinken??
    Jullie 40 graden, hier ‘s nachts bijna -10, ‘klein’ verschilletje van zo’n 50 graden …
    Succes maar weer.
    Groetjes, Beate
    PS Wat is je haar lang 😉

  2. Hallo Doortrappers, we hebben jullie zo’n beetje gevolgd de laatste weken en we moeten zeggen; petje af. Ondanks de prachtige omgeving (mooie foto’s !) blijkt uit de reisverslagen dat het meer is dan een rondje Heidemeer. Omstandigheden als regen,harde wind en heuvels cq bergen, hebben veel invloed op de voortgang. De temperatuur is idd wel vrij hoog en dat is wel lekker, maar ook niet altijd prettig ! In ieder geval een ongelofelijke ervaring tot nu toe en nog maar een beginnetje op wat er nog gaat komen . Ons was idd ook opgevallen dat jullie in ieder geval niet vereenzamen, want er zijn nog plenty anderen mensen die in dezelfde richting fietsen. Gaan die ook allemaal naar Prudhoe Bay ?? Ha ha, Dan wordt het nog druk in Alaska ! Toch nog veel plezier toegewenst, geniet van alles wat jullie zien en meemaken en maak af wat jullie begonnen zijn. Groeten van De Wimpel 1.

    • Hey Wimpel 1! Bedankt voor jullie reaktie. Leuk dat jullie ons volgen. Gelukkig is het inmiddels wat afgekoeld en is de temperatuur zeer acceptabel. Nog steeds niet weer regen gehad (ff afkloppen…). We zijn nu weer even in de bewoonde wereld met een hele grote supermarkt. Eigenlijk nooit beseft hoe makkelijk en handig dat is…! Allemaal lekkere dingen te koop! Maar morgen gaan we weer verder, terug naar de kleine dorpjes en even zo kleine winkeltjes. Groeten uit Coyhaique.

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