The first stage of the Carretera Austral existed of 230 kms (135 miles) to Cochrane. There are no presents here, so they were difficult miles again. The first day we did 60 miles from Villa O’Higgins to Rio Bravo, from where the ferry to the other side of the lake left. We thought it would be doable to do in 1 relatively long, but okay day. No such luck again. The road was tough (gravel) and there were many steep climbs. It was a beautiful place, so that made up for a lot. And fortunately, the last 14 miles were flat. But it was a long and hard day after all.

Next to the jetty from where the ferry would leave, is a waiting area with a toilet and a tap. We slept there, which saved us pitching the tent. It was just like staying in a lodge with a nice view on the lake and the mountains.

The next morning, the first ferry left at 11 so we could relax a little. But it also meant that we started cycling late that day. And it went up immediately. And very steep. There was a part with a 20% grade, so we had to push our bikes (one by one) again. It went up to about 450 meters/yards in 15 kms (10 miles), so it was a long and hard ascent. It took us hours again. After, we rode through a beautiful gorge with the river far beneath us. When we got out of that gorge, we finally descended and it started raining. After the descent the road became flat again so we were finally able to get our average mileage up. When it started raining very hard, we found a shelter to wait it out and after it got and stayed dry again.

The Germans on the campground in El Calafate had told us that there should be an abandoned campground about halfway Cochrane. They had spent the night there. And ideed, we saw that campground and pitched our tent there also. A nice place with a shelter and a table. There was even a tap which was still working.

The last stretch to Cochrane was also very hard. It was very hot (90’s) and the sun was burning on our skin. The road was flat for a little while, but not for long. Then most of it went up, but not as steep as the first part. It was another 80 kms (27 miles) to Cochrane, but most of it went uphill. And the road was in bad shape. Potholes, ditches, washboard and large loose rocks everywhere. When we were finally able to descent, it went very slow because of the bad shape of the road. But we made it and we were so happy to be there. We heard there should be a campground in the center of town and that was correct. And finally a store where we could buy (some) good food. Also because we had money again, because there’s a bank in Cochrane. The first in a long time (since we are in Chile again). Fortunately we had just enough money left over from Torres del Paine to be able to buy enough food in Villa O’Higgins to get to Cochrane.

It’s a beautiful world over there, around every corner you have a different view. There are lakes, valleys, tropical forests, snowy mountains, rivers and there’s water coming down everywhere so there’s plenty of fresh water to fill our waterbottles with and refresh ourselves on a hot day.